Showcase Exhibition and North East Open Studios

September is going to be a busy month for me! I am very pleased to have been given the opportunity of showing my new jewellery pieces as the featured designer in Lava Jewellery Design's Autumn Exhibition. My work will be on display from 1st - 29th September. 

Here is the postcard for the event with a wee sneak-peek of a few of the pieces I will be showing. My work is the top 5 images. The bottom three pictures are Duncan and Jacqui's jewellery representing some of the pieces you can find made at Lava Jewellery Design's Studio.

We are going to hold an Opening for the Exhibition on Saturday the 1st of September from 11.30am to 3.30pm. Please feel free to pop along for a celebratory drink and view my new collections.

If you can't manage the Saturday, my work will be on display for the whole of September.  I will be around working in the studio regularly during this time, so if you want to chat about my work or discuss a commission then please drop by. If you are making a special journey then you are best to call the shop on 01224 735000, just to make sure I will be there.

September 15th-23rd is also when North East Open Studios or NEOS is on and I am so pleased to be taking part for the first time this year.

(NEOS) is Scotland’s Largest Open Studios event. An award winning, not for profit collective of artists, makers and galleries in the North East of Scotland who open their doors to the public yearly. It is a fantastic opportunity to visit designers and artists in their own environments and see some of the great work being produced in the North East.

As part of the event a directory of all the participants is made every year and serves as a year round catalogue of North East artists and designers. Keep a look out to get a hold of your own copy!

If you can't wait, NEOS have a brilliant search section on their website where you can look up participants by name or discipline. There is also a map that you can download to help plan your route and visits. 

Why not stop past Lava Jewellery Designs on you way to Royal Deeside or Aberdeen and take a look at my new collections as well as Duncan and Jacqui's latest work. You can also see us working in the workshop, so if you have ever wanted to see jewellers at work, here is the perfect opportunity!

Here is my catalogue entry for the event.

So another long absence...but plenty in the works!

It would seem that all my promises of being better at posting to this blog and keeping things updated did not go to plan. Sorry about that.

I have been working on some new collections that are about to launch. I will be adding more information to the blog in the next few days but in the meantime, have a look at my 'Exhibitions' section for my new exhibition that is coming up.

I have also added some more pictures to my 'Previous Collections' page to show some past collections before I reveal my new work!

Cuttlefish Casting

I am going back to uni this week to start my course in Carving and Casting. This year I am planning to learn more about repeat casting units and some more advanced stone setting techniques. I hope I will be better at keeping the blog updated this time!

I thought this would be a good time to share some of what I learned last year on the course.

Cuttlefish casting is the easiest and least expensive (in terms of equipment) form of casting metal. It was the first technique we learned and is a good way of learning the principles of casting.

Here is my version of a step-by-step on how to complete a cuttlefish cast.

What you will need:

A Cuttlefish bone

Saw

Shape you wish to cast (can be made in wax, plastic, wood etc.)

Carving tools

Binding wire

Wire cutters

Casting metal (Pewter, silver etc.)

Crucible or pot to melt metal in.

Gas Torch or other heat source.

Leather Gloves

Goggles

Step-by-Step

1. Prepare the cuttlebone by removing the pointed top and bottom with a saw. Then saw it in half lengthways.

2. Make sure both halves fit together well by gently rubbing the flat sides against each other until they are flush.

3. Take the half of the cuttlebone with the harder back and begin pressing the shape to be cast into it.  About 1 inch from the top of the bone. If the shape is difficult to press in, use a carving tool to remove some of the cuttlebone. Be careful not to press too hard as the cuttlebone is very brittle and may break. Alternatively a shape can be carved out of the cuttlebone directly.

4. Once you have made your impression, use a carving tool to cut a funnel from the top of the bone to your shape. This will form the button. Also remember to draw some air lines out from the shape. This will help to prevent air bubbles and ensure a more complete cast. Dust any powdery residue from the bone using a paintbrush.

5. Place the two halves back together again, making sure they fit together tightly. Then wrap securely with binding wire.

6. Stand the cuttlefish bone firmly on a heatproof surface. Heat the metal to be cast. Always make sure you have enough metal to fill you cast plus some extra for the button. Once the metal is molten, pour it into the funnel opening.

7. Leave the cuttlebone to cool before moving it. Then run it under cold water to ensure it is fully cooled.

8. Remove the binding wire using wire cutters.

9. Lift off one half of your cuttle bone and see your cast. The metal should have also filled the air lines and some of the funnel opening.

10. Lift your cast out from the cuttlebone.

11. The air lines and button can now be removed using a saw. 

12. The edges can then be tidied with files and emery paper.

Please note: This technique gives the cast a flat back with a cuttlebone texture. Where the shape has been pressed, the cuttlebone layers are compressed giving a smoother finish. If the shape is carved out of the cuttlebone the layered texture is more visible.

To achieve a shaped back rather than a flat back, the other half of the cuttle bone is also carved or indented. If using a shape, place it in the cuttlebone and then put the two halves together (Before step 5). Use matchsticks or wire to pierce the cuttlebone and mark where they line up. separate the two halves and remove the shape before reassembling and continuing with step 5.

Some more notes:

If casting in silver (or gold) the cuttlebone can only be used once, whether the cast is successful or not. This is because the heat of the metal burns some of the cuttlefish when it is poured into the cast. If using pewter the cuttlebone can be used a few times if you are careful.

Cuttlebones can be bought cheaply from pet shops. The best bones to choose are large and as thick as possible. Thin small ones are more likely to break.

Sorry for the lack of photos at the beginning of the step-by-step - I only remembered to documented the process once I got home from my class and had my camera!

Fold Forming

Fold forming was invented by Charles Lewton-Brain. It is a technique of forming sheet metal quickly into fantastic 3-dimensional shapes without the need for soldering. Sheet metal is cut, folded and then hammered along the fold, to stretch the metal, before being unfolded to reveal wonderful, organic, curved shapes.

             

Fold forms with one fold using different starting shapes.

This was a technique I really enjoyed learning and experimenting with during my course. There are endless possibilities with fold forming depending on the starting shape and number of folds within a piece. The direction of the folds as well as the amount of hammering also varies the outcome of the final form. 

Fold form with two folds to create flower shape.

It was intriguing to cut different shapes and hammer the folds to differing degrees before finally unfolding the pieces to reveal their final form. The more a fold is hammered, the more the metal naturally stretches and curves round. Hammering along the open outer edge also affects the outcome of the form.

Leaf shapes made using fold forming.

This is a great metal-forming technique to uses in jewellery because the 3-D forms can be made so fast. The lack of soldered joints also makes them ideal surfaces to enamel for an added splash of colour.

Back to Learning

One of the reasons for my long absence and neglect of this blog over the last year is that I went back to uni to do some classes. I attended my old Art School to do two courses in advanced jewellery techniques as I wanted to learn some new skills. I had no idea how time consuming this would become though, but I do feel I have learned a lot that has benefited the progression of my work. As I am mostly self-taught, I thought it would be good to get a better grounding in jewellery making and try out some new techniques that are not so easy to achieve in my little workshop due to the range of equipment used.

The courses were in 'Colour and Construction' and 'Wax Carving and Casting'. Two completely different areas of jewellery making with many different components in each. 

Some enamelled test pieces.

The 'colour' in 'Colour and Construction' was enamelling. A great technique for introducing colour into jewellery but also very frustrating to control. I had some very mixed results but more on that later...

Fold formed shapes.

The 'construction' element included a number of metal forming techniques including: fold forming, forging and using a fly press as well as making handmade chain. (So mainly lots of hammering!). 

Chain making.

The 'Wax Carving and Casting' course introduced the use of wax to form a piece of jewellery rather than soldering and forming metal. It also covered three casting techniques: cuttlefish, clay and lost wax. All have very different results.

Cuttlefish Casting.

Cuttlefish casting is the technique that requires the least specialist equipment as a shape is either pressed or carved out of a cuttlefish shell. While it is the quickest casting technique and the least expensive, it is difficult to produce really detailed results.

Wax carving and silver lost wax casting.

Lost wax creates casts with much more definition however it is a far more time consuming technique which requires a lot more specialist tools and machinery.

This is really just a wee sneak peek of some of the things I have been working on as I will be posting more information on each technique in due course.

More Rings!

I have been working on a few more ring commissions recently and thought I would share them here. These are made using a different technique to the stacking rings as the stone is set into the band rather than sitting on top. This means a section of the ring has to be cut out and requires a bit more measuring and careful filing to make sure the setting fits snuggly and the ring stays the right size!

       

The first ring is set with a deep blue oval Sapphire. A lovely denim coloured stone that reminds me of a deep pool of water. 

The second has a large round labradorite gemstone. This particular stone covers most of the green spectrum with flashes of lime right through to forrest green depending on how the light catches it.


At first these designs were a bit of a challenge as I had only made one ring previous in this technique and was a little apprehensive about getting the sizing right. Needless to say, I had nothing to worry about as the rings fitted perfectly! Phew!


It was great to have the opportunity to build on my jewellery skills and I love any occasion to work with pretty gemstones - it must be my magpie tendencies!

Stacking Ring Commission

I recently completed a ring commission to make two stacking rings for a client to give to his wife as a surprise gift. It was lovely to have the opportunity to work on such a thoughtful present.

The larger stone is a Labradorite. (One of my favourite stones as it has a lovely iridescent quality and a spectrum of colours). This particular stone has a deep kingfisher blue colour with a darker line slicing through it. The other ring has a smaller deep blue/purply Iolite stone. 

The stacking rings are really versatile as they can be worn together or separately depending on the mood of the wearer.  Worn together they give a more dramatic look and are a chunkier piece, while alone they give a subtle flash of colour to brighten an outfit. Extra rings can also be added to a stacking set to create endless combinations.

I am always happy to work with different stones and create the perfect ring for an individual. Gemstones can be selected based on favourite colours, birthstones or their meanings and properties. I can also work with a selection of oval and round stones in a variety of sizes.

I just received an email from my client saying his wife "loves (the rings) and says they are the nicest present I have ever given her". Isn't that lovely. I love getting emails like that! It's always great to hear feedback once my jewellery has been sent off and I'm so pleased to have made someone smile :)